Thursday, February 3, 2011

Has Anyone Had Keliod Surgury



February 3, 2011

Again, we had no time to update our entries, but because today raining terribly, so I finally choose and never have time for catching up.

First continuation of previous stories, and so alert, which was 27 / 1 during the long and quite tiring road to Los Antiguos.

January 27: El Chalten we left with more than 12-hour bus trip after the gravel roads in the most number of 40, famous in Argentina because leading down the Alps for the entire country from north to south. Liczylysmy in connection with this the beautiful views, but nothing that will not, because I now started to rain, clouds hang low, and the road had become muddy, so the windows our side are completely and totally splotchy mud nothing they can see. So we sit and shake our bit sore body.
But yesterday, finally managed to choose neither with me for a short trail in El Chalten and bravely climbed two mountains to admire the views, and so I managed to at least one day in August pozachwycac mountains and the beautiful surroundings. So far, El Chalten and mountains around it is our absolute number one in Argentina. The day before yesterday we found

also next to our hostel, cool cafes with waffles (well, so late), so for two consecutive days wynagradzalysmy the effort of migration (and calories), admiring the waffles with fruit, chocolate and ice cream. Yummy!

hours on the trail also survived an interesting adventure. When We walked by the lake, suddenly we heard the cheers and we saw each other two gauczow (ie, the local cowboys) on horseback at a gallop. My first thought was that it's probably some sort of attraction for tourists, but suddenly I saw that they Gonia young bull. In the full rush przemkneli near us, and the runaway bull in the head przywalil mesh fence, and a bit dazed sped away and gauczowie him. All last long enough that even I managed not to do pictures, but soon we decided that we must go to the other side of the fence, in case the bull turned. Then, already in advance, we saw that they managed to catch him, but kiedu passed by the way, bull suddenly stopped and thought, or move. I just stood there: two riders, bullhead, and cars, which blocked the passage. We do not know how it all ended, but it was the second such meeting during our trip. When
Nimez We went round the reserve and were watching the birds, the horses were grazing meadows. And suddenly, when we were walking path, we heard a clatter behind him, obrocilysmy August and two galloping horses (no riders) and the wild neighing of przemknely near us. We had a little funk, but on the other hand, it was a really wonderful scene, almost like the wild mustangs went by near us.

In general, animals behave quite freely here and doing what they want. Yesterday evening, two horses walked the main street of El Chalten and never could see their respective owners. A dog walking in a pretty loose on the streets also mentioned. Interestingly, many of these dogs have collars, so they have probably also the owners of what they do not mind lazic the whole city, and lie down wherever and whenever. Sometimes it looks funny, when I lie down at the entrance to the shops, or more than one dog leaves the device itself Sieste on the lawn at the center of the city. Moreover, it makes an impression as if the dogs belonged to everyone. I do not look at most of the zabiedzone, sometimes a little dirty, and no they are not at all aggressive towards humans. In fact, ignore them, apart from those they know. Only react to other dogs, ganiajac behind them, or obszczekujac, sometimes it happens also to chase them for a car or bike, or just go for some sort of person piece, but without any barking, and catching the leg. Very quickly you can get used to it, and man does not even quite afraid of big dogs.

Yesterday, while walking, also've seen condors (not the first time anyway), but they should act as befits the condors. Kolujac flew high, but one came close enough that whites could be seen on the dorsal side of its wings. And what more fun, now it was on his way to a vantage point called "Condor."

once you dotluczemy to Los Antiguos, is staying there one day and the next we are planning a trip to the Cueva de las Manos naskalnymi drawings. And then 30 / 1 go on to Bariloche the next 800 km, and it already will be the last stage of our trip focused on the area called the Lake District (ie land of lakes), although this is really a lake and mountains, which we hope to see both sides, ie, the Argentine and Chilean, and, above all by its own (or hired) four collectors.

This is the end of the first part, the rest try to be complemented with a little later, after lunch ...

OK, I'm already najedzona and zaslodzona (very good cake with strawberries) and rain falls away, so I can continue the story.

tired of shaking the trip at night luckily we got to Los Antiguos. Natsepnego day we went for a walk, mostly on the shores of Lake Buenos Aires, one of the largest in Am.Poludniowej, lying on the border of Argentina and Chile. The sun shone as usual, very windy, czaami wietrem cool, but that started to slowly get used in August. We also managed to finally buy some Vitamins in the form of cherry, because Los Antiguos famous for its orchards, and now it is just season cherries. These two kilos ate about 3 days until our stomachs hurt, but it was a nice change. Przetransportowalysmy August evening to Perito Moreno (the village, not a glacier), which we totally getcha down, it was ugly and unpleasant, and of even people earlier rather nice and friendly here in the most inaccessible sprawaiali impression, not to say outright nasty (especially in our "hotel" type of hotel workers). But somehow there wytrzymalysmy two nights in between day we went to schedule a trip to the cave with paintings, or Cueva de Las Manos. He goes in there quite a long time a very dusty road, making our lungs felt strong enough, but when we reached the place, then we really speechless, this time because of the views. We were on the edge of the beautiful canyon, which later went down depth-first. It turns out that the cave itself, is actually a shallow cave in the slope of the canyon, where the original peoples protected in winter against snow and wind. Same while there are paintings on the walls of the canyon. The oldest of them converted about 9000 years and the youngest was about a thousand, so I really arose for many generations. The most important and most recurring motif are the hands (hence the name Cave cancer), but there are drawings of the guanaco, and hunting with it, armadillos, as well as mythical beasts. To all the sun started to occur by changing the beautiful color of the canyon walls in a beautiful orange, no i was complete silence. Our trip went to the bottom of the canyon, where he had to cross the tiny stream wbrod, so to climb on the opposite edge of the canyon to the other side. Here came the only unpleasant part of the program, because I nadepnelam bare foot on the little bush Calafate protruding from the sand and the rate of wbily me two rings from the bush, which then jointly wydlubywalysmy at night with my feet, but everything just how it ended. Our tour we started quite late, so the final uphill approach had already been done almost in the dark, but still much we liked.

next day, and so 30 / 1 we moved further in the way by bus to Bariloche. We had 800 km before him and the planned arrival of about 21.00. The first section of the road was still gravel, but then began to asphalt, not raining, the window przewijaly a nice view, so despite the long road we dopisywaly humors. But when we were some five hours, the bus broke down and stood by the road away from any buildings of, and around us the wind just whistled. At first seemed that it is possible to fix this, but our driver quickly came to the conclusion that, unfortunately, will not go further. Fortunately, this section of the road were traveling with us extremely lady "pilot", which (also extremely) spoke English. Monika (because it seems that that was his name) caught a ride to the nearest city, and organized the We further transport minibuses. After 3.5 hour of waiting came two mini-buses, to whom we were packed and we went on. What's more, Monika obdzwonila place kotrych we had all the sleep and organized a ride for us at the same hostels / hotels, which greatly helped us, because we arrived after midnight.

Luckily our hostel in Bariloche it turned out very nice, comfortable and the staff speak English. In this connection, there also we ordered the bed on our return to Bariloche, already before the trip to Buenos Aires. The shelter also we met another Pole, Dominic, who had gone to Brazil, and now drive a Argentina. On the occasion of telling us how horror story turned out to ride by train in Argentina. Trains is There are very few, in principle, should be dismantled, but some rules say that the country needs to keep some lines. As a result, coaches are definitely from another era, the most comfortable place turned out to be really comfortable on average, and this track, according to Dominic, it was very uneven and bent at the joints, which was felt during the ride. So there is nothing to complain to the station. Well, we are delighted that we will not have decided to travel by train, and walked us to the idea on the head (ie me).

Bariloche is definitely a tourist town, which no one here does not hide. It has, like Zakopane, two seasons: summer and winter, so the lack of tourists can not complain. Unfortunately, it is still a trap for us, namely, is famous chocolate! Shops chocolate and czekoladziarnie are here literally on every corner, ie, on all four corners of the intersection and every few steps to the main street. We we went to one of the most commended (and expensive) czekoladziarni by almost rustic Mamushka name. Appearance and dress code clearly indicates the operating relationship with Russian roots, but the devices are really delicious.

decided to not give into temptation and flee quickly from Bariloche, in connection with this second day after arrival We spent the trip to the so-called. Black Glacier descending from the top Tronador. To get there again, we had to spend two hours in a minibus, it was quite cold for this, despite the beautiful sunshine. But when we got into the National Park, the road wila beautifully, in the bottom of the lake we could see a blue-green color. When you reach the parking lot, we decided to go to a vantage point on the Black Glacier, which meant a 7 km walk, unfortunately, not trail, but still a gravel road, but the way we had practice for myself, so I was not so bad. Glacier is obviously not the whole black, its upper part is the most white-blue. However, in the middle of it falls from the top ledge and glacier formed anew in August below and down mixes and involves rocks, so that its bottom part actually takes almost black color. But you have to admit, it looks really nicely, especially in combination with a reddish color scales around the blue-white glacier above and small and large waterfalls coming down from the top. I went further in trying to figure to one of the waterfalls, but I ran out some time to come to the foot of, because we've waited way back, a minibus leaving at 17 o'clock this. So I settled for photo with 2 / 3 of the way to the waterfall and tired, but happy we returned the same way.

And since yesterday, we "own" car! This gives us incredible freedom that we started to use the panoramic trail yesterday driving by near Bariloche, because we could finally stop at where we liked.

And today we are in Villa de Angostura, on his way to the border with Chile, which we intend to exceed tomorrow (papers look okay, so we hope there will be problems.) Today we had to go for the whole day to the surrounding national park, but it pours, that none of this would be a pleasure. We hope that the weather will improve tomorrow, I will be leaving Andy FOR IN to Chile and we are hoping for nice widoczki. So next post will probably already in Chile.

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